New road bike for Simon...
- Simon Llewellyn
- Posts: 1532
- Joined: 13 Nov 2006, 22:31
- Location: Tempe Velodrome
Hey Guys,
With the Sydney road titles and more for the grafton later this year I'm starting to think it's time to get a new road bike. I don't particularly want to spend over $4000, simply because i don't think i will be riding much more than I'll be racing it. I'm kind of thinking between Giant, Scott & getting a road version of my beloved inexa track bike.
The options are really:
Giant TCR 1- http://www.giant-bicycle.com/en-AU/bikes/road/74/22706/
Scott CR1 pro- http://www.scottusa.com/product.php?UID=9758
Inexa X2- http://www.inexa.com.au/frames_x2.htm
Inexa X3- http://www.inexa.com.au/frames_x3.htm
Inexa C2- http://www.inexa.com.au/frames_c2.htm
I'm abit put off by the compact frame in the giant, it doesn't really inspire me all that greatly. The Scott could be a goer, but for $4000 I'm not really all that sure. It looks like a nice bike, the question all lies in the quality of the frame really? I would say that the carbon scott must be better then the carbon inexa because of the price difference but than i can't really see any difference whatsoever in any aluminium track frames. They're painted differently and they tend to have slightly different angles but the performance doesn't vary all that much. I know that over longer distances weight plays a role but then i won't be targeting any road races with steep inclines with the exception of aiming to finish grafton. & in price difference, the weight just doesn't seem to equate for me? The Inexa C2 almost seems like the ideal buy. Cheap aluminium frame, should be stiff, running ultegra and i could add a pair of Zipps for the price it costs to add dura ace, carbon chainstays, seat post and stearer. But i don't know is an extra bit of carbon worth an extra $500 to $1000? Plus Inexa will give a life time warranty on aluminium and only 5 years on carbon, there's got to be something in that?
Or should should i get a big name brand bike instead? a steel bianchi? a colnago?
With the Sydney road titles and more for the grafton later this year I'm starting to think it's time to get a new road bike. I don't particularly want to spend over $4000, simply because i don't think i will be riding much more than I'll be racing it. I'm kind of thinking between Giant, Scott & getting a road version of my beloved inexa track bike.
The options are really:
Giant TCR 1- http://www.giant-bicycle.com/en-AU/bikes/road/74/22706/
Scott CR1 pro- http://www.scottusa.com/product.php?UID=9758
Inexa X2- http://www.inexa.com.au/frames_x2.htm
Inexa X3- http://www.inexa.com.au/frames_x3.htm
Inexa C2- http://www.inexa.com.au/frames_c2.htm
I'm abit put off by the compact frame in the giant, it doesn't really inspire me all that greatly. The Scott could be a goer, but for $4000 I'm not really all that sure. It looks like a nice bike, the question all lies in the quality of the frame really? I would say that the carbon scott must be better then the carbon inexa because of the price difference but than i can't really see any difference whatsoever in any aluminium track frames. They're painted differently and they tend to have slightly different angles but the performance doesn't vary all that much. I know that over longer distances weight plays a role but then i won't be targeting any road races with steep inclines with the exception of aiming to finish grafton. & in price difference, the weight just doesn't seem to equate for me? The Inexa C2 almost seems like the ideal buy. Cheap aluminium frame, should be stiff, running ultegra and i could add a pair of Zipps for the price it costs to add dura ace, carbon chainstays, seat post and stearer. But i don't know is an extra bit of carbon worth an extra $500 to $1000? Plus Inexa will give a life time warranty on aluminium and only 5 years on carbon, there's got to be something in that?
Or should should i get a big name brand bike instead? a steel bianchi? a colnago?
Doesn't James M have a Scott? Check it out.
For $4000 there's a lot of good bikes to choose from. Have you considered a Cannondale? They have some really interesting hybrid CF/Alu frame technology and have great reviews on the net.
There are a lot of cheaper Colnagos to choose from these days. As for Bianchi, you'll start to look at some of the 928 framed models.
For $4000 there's a lot of good bikes to choose from. Have you considered a Cannondale? They have some really interesting hybrid CF/Alu frame technology and have great reviews on the net.
There are a lot of cheaper Colnagos to choose from these days. As for Bianchi, you'll start to look at some of the 928 framed models.
Another one to consider is a Cervelo Team Soloist, that is what I have. Full aluminum with a carbon fork, can double as a time trial bike as well. Cervelo also offer limited life time warranty.
It is a surprisingly comfortable frame, but it is compact.
I had a look at KOM Cyclery (http://www.komcyclery.com.au) and they have an Ultregra kitted one for $3,600.
As weiyun said, $4,000 gives you a lot of choices.
James
It is a surprisingly comfortable frame, but it is compact.
I had a look at KOM Cyclery (http://www.komcyclery.com.au) and they have an Ultregra kitted one for $3,600.
As weiyun said, $4,000 gives you a lot of choices.
James
- mikesbytes
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Are you in a hurry to get the bike? IE before the Sydney road championships? If not you could go the build option.
Well, if you're looking at under $4000, i'll have a think about things a bit more. The Cervelo is good for versatility, and $3600 sounds like a reasonable price.
However........ for $4000, i reckon you can go a lot further, and if i new this when i built my bike i would have got a lot more for my buck, but it's time for me to upgrade anyway, well when i've got money again (sort of still paying my parents back, just keep spending on other stuff).
Anyway, back on track, if you don't mind buying stuff from overseas, i believe with $4000 i could find you a way to get you a 7.5-8kg bike(approx, maybe bit more), depends on component choices, PLUS a set of carbon race wheels (custom built 50mm deep, I'm thinking 24/24spokes). That's with a rough guess at postage costs.
The questions i need answered are:
1) What is your budget limit?
2) Component Choice - Campy, Shimano, SRAM, and level(eg. DA or Ultegra)?
3) Carbon or Alloy (if this matters)?
4)Can't think of it, but i will soon.
Anyway, for you too look at, http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/ (prices include 19% VAT, which we don't pay) and http://www.m5-ligfietsen.nl/site/EN I still need to research the rims from M5 (they only came out recently) but from what i've read of their other parts i'm fairly confident they'll be good. It's basically what i'm looking at for my next bike, but i'm still working out the details. Initially i was looking at the carbon canyon frame (special 999Euro deal if you have a race licence) though the Alloy one looks better all the time (even though it's heavier), i especially like the look of the Ultimate Al 8.0 (price is great), but it's SRAM (i want to try it, though i'll be keeping some DA parts).
From the bikes you've listed, i believe the Scott has the best frame of the lot, should be stiffer than the Giant, not really sure about the Inexas, but the price is good. Something like a Colnago, or something of similar lines would be nice, though i can't reall justify the price for them, especially with the alternatives available. I'd love a Ridley Noah, or a nice Ti frame, but $5000 for the Noah frame and fork........
Guess i should stop there, and wait for some more info on what you want. The Canyon should definitely be stiff enough for you. 90% sure it's the next bike i'll be riding (hopefully by Christmas, if not before Grafton), might get the carbon wheels first though.
However........ for $4000, i reckon you can go a lot further, and if i new this when i built my bike i would have got a lot more for my buck, but it's time for me to upgrade anyway, well when i've got money again (sort of still paying my parents back, just keep spending on other stuff).
Anyway, back on track, if you don't mind buying stuff from overseas, i believe with $4000 i could find you a way to get you a 7.5-8kg bike(approx, maybe bit more), depends on component choices, PLUS a set of carbon race wheels (custom built 50mm deep, I'm thinking 24/24spokes). That's with a rough guess at postage costs.
The questions i need answered are:
1) What is your budget limit?
2) Component Choice - Campy, Shimano, SRAM, and level(eg. DA or Ultegra)?
3) Carbon or Alloy (if this matters)?
4)Can't think of it, but i will soon.
Anyway, for you too look at, http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/ (prices include 19% VAT, which we don't pay) and http://www.m5-ligfietsen.nl/site/EN I still need to research the rims from M5 (they only came out recently) but from what i've read of their other parts i'm fairly confident they'll be good. It's basically what i'm looking at for my next bike, but i'm still working out the details. Initially i was looking at the carbon canyon frame (special 999Euro deal if you have a race licence) though the Alloy one looks better all the time (even though it's heavier), i especially like the look of the Ultimate Al 8.0 (price is great), but it's SRAM (i want to try it, though i'll be keeping some DA parts).
From the bikes you've listed, i believe the Scott has the best frame of the lot, should be stiffer than the Giant, not really sure about the Inexas, but the price is good. Something like a Colnago, or something of similar lines would be nice, though i can't reall justify the price for them, especially with the alternatives available. I'd love a Ridley Noah, or a nice Ti frame, but $5000 for the Noah frame and fork........
Guess i should stop there, and wait for some more info on what you want. The Canyon should definitely be stiff enough for you. 90% sure it's the next bike i'll be riding (hopefully by Christmas, if not before Grafton), might get the carbon wheels first though.
I think the Road championships are really too close to have a new bike ready for them. As for the build option, i assume you mean choosing individual parts? Usually ends up costing more, although you do get what you want. I've done it before, though these days i see the sense in buying the bike complete.
- mikesbytes
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Simon you are a strong/powerful rider. I see for riders like you the ability of the bike to get the power to the ground as more important than the lightness of the bike.
Cost wise, the sales on bikes are about 3 months off, when next years models come in.
I am inclined to agree with James F that the Road Championships is too close to achieve benefit from a new bike, as it would take a couple of weeks to acclimatise to it.
If you don't buy a bike before the Sydney Road Championships, what alternatives do you have?
Cost wise, the sales on bikes are about 3 months off, when next years models come in.
I am inclined to agree with James F that the Road Championships is too close to achieve benefit from a new bike, as it would take a couple of weeks to acclimatise to it.
If you don't buy a bike before the Sydney Road Championships, what alternatives do you have?
- Simon Llewellyn
- Posts: 1532
- Joined: 13 Nov 2006, 22:31
- Location: Tempe Velodrome
I'm definitely interested in the cervelo, I don't need a bike before the sydney road titles though it would be nice. Do you think they would swap the carbon cranks for the standard Ultegra? Carbon cranks don't appeal to me all that much, unless they're campy...
- mikesbytes
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The Inexa X2 and C2 are no good for you as they have WH550 wheels and you would just end up breaking the spokes.
- Simon Llewellyn
- Posts: 1532
- Joined: 13 Nov 2006, 22:31
- Location: Tempe Velodrome
Colnago arte? Dura ace, May special $3500 from $4500?
http://www.alphacycles.com.au/BikeBrands/Colnago.html
http://www.alphacycles.com.au/BikeBrands/Colnago.html
Is there anything special with Colnago Arte? I'd think that there are better bikes than that entry level Colnago for your level of riding.
The catch with brands like Colnago, is yes you can get their bikes at the price you are looking, but you will be at their entry level.
I know I had this when I was looking at a new frame, I could either get mid/high range in some brands, or get the very entry level from Time.
At that point, you are asking if Brand A entry level, is as good as Brand B mid range (and maybe Brand C high level).
Personally, I think that some of the bike brands in Australia are very overpriced. I know that Pinarello fall into this category, if you buy a Dogma (their top level bike) in Italy and bring it back, you can end up with a complete bike, for the cost of the frame in Australia.
I also question the choice of Dura-Ace, as Dura-Ace, Ultegra and 105 are now all 10 speed, the main difference is weight, wouldn't it better to look at stopping at Ultegra for components (or Chorus if you went Campy) and save the dollars?
James
I know I had this when I was looking at a new frame, I could either get mid/high range in some brands, or get the very entry level from Time.
At that point, you are asking if Brand A entry level, is as good as Brand B mid range (and maybe Brand C high level).
Personally, I think that some of the bike brands in Australia are very overpriced. I know that Pinarello fall into this category, if you buy a Dogma (their top level bike) in Italy and bring it back, you can end up with a complete bike, for the cost of the frame in Australia.
I also question the choice of Dura-Ace, as Dura-Ace, Ultegra and 105 are now all 10 speed, the main difference is weight, wouldn't it better to look at stopping at Ultegra for components (or Chorus if you went Campy) and save the dollars?
James
With airline ticket and change to spare.Personally, I think that some of the bike brands in Australia are very overpriced. I know that Pinarello fall into this category, if you buy a Dogma (their top level bike) in Italy and bring it back, you can end up with a complete bike, for the cost of the frame in Australia.
- Simon Llewellyn
- Posts: 1532
- Joined: 13 Nov 2006, 22:31
- Location: Tempe Velodrome
I don't think i've really ever been as confused as this, i didn't realise buying a new bike is such a headache. I think i now remember why i love the track so much. It's so simple!
But i asked the boys at the track last night and no matter who i ask I've not yet heard a bad word about the cervelo even from the bloke who has a Time, Bianchi & Colnago, all top of the range... But brownie was quite convinced that Dura Ace is considerably better than Ultegra in performance and durability. Not that that's what I've read on the net but Brownies been in the game for along time and even done a stint as a pro. So gee i still remain quite confused. There is one certainty though. If it's cheap, they've cut a corner somewhere!
But i asked the boys at the track last night and no matter who i ask I've not yet heard a bad word about the cervelo even from the bloke who has a Time, Bianchi & Colnago, all top of the range... But brownie was quite convinced that Dura Ace is considerably better than Ultegra in performance and durability. Not that that's what I've read on the net but Brownies been in the game for along time and even done a stint as a pro. So gee i still remain quite confused. There is one certainty though. If it's cheap, they've cut a corner somewhere!
The market for road bikes is so much larger than track and the available choices reflect that. And then the bulk of that choice are made in Taiwan/China by OEM companies, and Giant is probably one of the largest at that.
The Colnago looks nice, but determining whether the BH, Colnago, or Cervelo has a better frame, it's hard to say. Probably the Cervelo as it's been race proven in the past, though the BH may have as well, just need to know the model. One reason why the Colnago is cheaper than the usual Colnago is because it's one of the Frames being made in Taiwan, though i'd still expect the quality to be good, just make sure it's got those lovely Dura-Ace cranks on it.
Anyway, Burwood seems to stock both BH and Colnago, so it's probably best to take a look there.
Anyway, Burwood seems to stock both BH and Colnago, so it's probably best to take a look there.
There is a lot of mystic around big name bikes but I think it rubs off more on the riders egos than on their performances. I'd look at the "B Brand " bike with quality components and focus on value for money... and I would'nt worry if its made in Tawain. Most of all I'd see if you can take some of them for a test ride and make your decision after you've got a feel for the different bikes.
Yes and No.There is a lot of mystic around big name bikes but I think it rubs off more on the riders egos than on their performances.
There is a certain amount of price gouging that goes on with the big brands, but in some cases, I think you can justify it in some cases.
Go to Cervelo's site (http://www.cervelo.com) and read about their development of the Team Soloist.
Also, think of it like this, I am sure with a bit of experience at welding I could knock a bike frame together, but there is no way I would ride it, I don't know enough about frame building.
As with any purchase, you need to determine how much you are paying for the name, and how much for quality.
All I can say is read reviews, speak to people, and then make a decision.
When I bought the Cervelo, I had narrowed my choice down to a few bikes before I even swung a leg over one. In the end I only test road the one bike.
James
I agree with JamesC. There are brand name gouging and then there are real return for that pain. Reminded me of a similar experience with cars. Drove many premium German and European models on the German Autobahn over the years and I am totally sold on BMW's roadworthiness. It's the only marque that I am willing to fork out the premium for the performance, although there's just no need for them on our Australian roads. So yes, some products have real engineering behind them.
BTW, what do people think of Ridley Damacles frame? That same frame Robbie McEwen rides. I don't care about those big names riders but I am interested in the product as I've come across a seemingly good offer. It just seemed to be a beautiful bike and not very common. Any opinions? Either support me or squash this buying urge of mine. I need both.
Simon, what frame size are you looking for? They may have a frame of your size too. I understand it's a very stiff (harsher) CF monocoque frame and but should be good for your power. The price will push you out of your $4000 mark once you've added all the other bits (if you are going for top of the line componenets). But if it's worthy frame, it may be a good solution.
BTW, what do people think of Ridley Damacles frame? That same frame Robbie McEwen rides. I don't care about those big names riders but I am interested in the product as I've come across a seemingly good offer. It just seemed to be a beautiful bike and not very common. Any opinions? Either support me or squash this buying urge of mine. I need both.
Simon, what frame size are you looking for? They may have a frame of your size too. I understand it's a very stiff (harsher) CF monocoque frame and but should be good for your power. The price will push you out of your $4000 mark once you've added all the other bits (if you are going for top of the line componenets). But if it's worthy frame, it may be a good solution.
McEwen rides the Ridley Noah these days, has been for probably the last year at least. I did like the looks of the Damocles as well though. Paint job is top class (ridley started out as just a frame painting company). Originally there were some reliability issues with the frame, however i believe they were solved. The carbon forks look great too, wouldn't mind some of the cyclocross ones for my tourer, though i'll probably get something cheaper. Anyway, i believe it's a nice frame.
Where is this deal coming from? Anything i might like?
Where is this deal coming from? Anything i might like?
eBay. $3100 and up. What do you think? Bargain or not?
Who sells Ridley in Sydney? Want to find out their RRP for comparison. Don't like the Noah for its integrated seat tube/post.
Who sells Ridley in Sydney? Want to find out their RRP for comparison. Don't like the Noah for its integrated seat tube/post.
Ah, the Australian Champ version. I wouldn't get it because of the colours, i prefer the lotto team version, or there was one with red. Cheapest place i know of in Germany is $2640 (excluding vat)plus postage, so i'm thinking the price is pretty good, and you won't find it cheaper in the shops. This German place has the Noah for another $2840, and it's over $5000 here.
Just read about the new SRAM Red groupset coming out for next year. Looks promising, especially since the front derailleur is lighter than Dura-Ace now. Looks like my next bike will have to wait a bit longer until Canyon have a Red equiped bike, or i see it cheap on ebay (has to come out first). If it turns out i don't like it, i'll still have my Dura-Ace at least, but lets wait and see. One positive, seems my Carbon wheels will be on their way before the new bike build, and it looks like it'll be just about impossible to keep my bike weight above the 6.8kg.
Just read about the new SRAM Red groupset coming out for next year. Looks promising, especially since the front derailleur is lighter than Dura-Ace now. Looks like my next bike will have to wait a bit longer until Canyon have a Red equiped bike, or i see it cheap on ebay (has to come out first). If it turns out i don't like it, i'll still have my Dura-Ace at least, but lets wait and see. One positive, seems my Carbon wheels will be on their way before the new bike build, and it looks like it'll be just about impossible to keep my bike weight above the 6.8kg.
I don't know who sells Ridley.
However, (and this is hear say) but I have heard that they have a very high rate of return for warranty, usually because of the frame cracking.
As a second hand frame, you wouldn't have any warranty, so if it does break, you aren't covered and the loss is yours.
James
However, (and this is hear say) but I have heard that they have a very high rate of return for warranty, usually because of the frame cracking.
As a second hand frame, you wouldn't have any warranty, so if it does break, you aren't covered and the loss is yours.
James
Actually, they have other colour schemes, including that White/Red/Blue/Grey in L size. The frame is new and is covered by Australian warranty for 5 years. The cracking issue apparently related to early models AFAIK.
James, given that the frame weighs 1.2kg and 1.6ish with forks. What could be the expected final weight range for the full bike using Chorus? Is a sub-7.5kg bike realistic?
James, given that the frame weighs 1.2kg and 1.6ish with forks. What could be the expected final weight range for the full bike using Chorus? Is a sub-7.5kg bike realistic?
those frame weights sound similar to what my frame and fork weighs. I think my bike comes in at about 8.5kg.
You have to realise that when a brand advertise a 7.5kg bike, they aren't including pedals, bottle cages and all the other stuff we put on the bike.
Relating to the frame being new and covered by warranty, is it being sold through a shop? or privately? I think you will find that if it is a private sale, then you are the second owner, regardless of the fact that the frame has never been used.
Most bike warranties state for the life of the original owner. Having been shafted on a cracked frame, which was a second hand buy, I would be very cautious about buying a frame or bike for that sort of money. If you are unsure, ask the distributor or a shop. Get a firm answer from someone in the know.
And Simon, do you want to have a ride of my Cervelo? I am going to be off for at least another week with this knee of mine, it is a 54cm frame. Let me know if you are interested.
James
You have to realise that when a brand advertise a 7.5kg bike, they aren't including pedals, bottle cages and all the other stuff we put on the bike.
Relating to the frame being new and covered by warranty, is it being sold through a shop? or privately? I think you will find that if it is a private sale, then you are the second owner, regardless of the fact that the frame has never been used.
Most bike warranties state for the life of the original owner. Having been shafted on a cracked frame, which was a second hand buy, I would be very cautious about buying a frame or bike for that sort of money. If you are unsure, ask the distributor or a shop. Get a firm answer from someone in the know.
And Simon, do you want to have a ride of my Cervelo? I am going to be off for at least another week with this knee of mine, it is a 54cm frame. Let me know if you are interested.
James
Thanks for the insight.
I am aware of how bike weights are spec'ed ie. Sans pedals, bottle cages etc. So the weight spec in my mind is with reference to those criteria. The frame is sold through distributor of some sort and comes with a tax invoice which I need to take it home (Made in Taiwan) and back for some GST incentive. The proprietor said that warranty will be honored by Ridley's national distributor.
My key concern is that this frame is said to be quite stiff within the CF family. Given my lighter weight, would it be too much for me? But should be good for Simon with his sprinter power I guess.
I am aware of how bike weights are spec'ed ie. Sans pedals, bottle cages etc. So the weight spec in my mind is with reference to those criteria. The frame is sold through distributor of some sort and comes with a tax invoice which I need to take it home (Made in Taiwan) and back for some GST incentive. The proprietor said that warranty will be honored by Ridley's national distributor.
My key concern is that this frame is said to be quite stiff within the CF family. Given my lighter weight, would it be too much for me? But should be good for Simon with his sprinter power I guess.
I had a play on Competitive Cyclist's site (http://www.competitivecyclist.com) for both my bike and the Ridley Damacles.
The Damacles Frame is about 200g lighter than the Team Soloist, here are their Frame and Fork Weights
Team Soloist: 1913g
Damacles: 1550g
I would take both with a lump of salt, when all said and done this is a shop's website and they are in the business of sell bikes.
I built up a bike with both and the Cervelo came out at about 7,827g with my compoent and wheel choice, but mine is about 700g heavier than that.
They think that the Ridley will be about 6.7kg, so once you add the pedals and some slop, you may reach the 7.5kg.
As far as warranty goes, if they are a shop, then it shouldn't be an issue, if they are private sellers then it probably is.
James
The Damacles Frame is about 200g lighter than the Team Soloist, here are their Frame and Fork Weights
Team Soloist: 1913g
Damacles: 1550g
I would take both with a lump of salt, when all said and done this is a shop's website and they are in the business of sell bikes.
I built up a bike with both and the Cervelo came out at about 7,827g with my compoent and wheel choice, but mine is about 700g heavier than that.
They think that the Ridley will be about 6.7kg, so once you add the pedals and some slop, you may reach the 7.5kg.
As far as warranty goes, if they are a shop, then it shouldn't be an issue, if they are private sellers then it probably is.
James
- mikesbytes
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After watching a guy nearly fall off twice in my last race, grounding his speed plays, I was wondering what crank length you are going to use, as the bike is going to be used for crits.
Which bikes have the BB too low for crit use?
Which bikes have the BB too low for crit use?
Don't know about Simon, but I've grounded on one of Heffron's corners once also with my present 175mm crank. Managed to hold my line and didn't cause any drama.
If I get to build up a new bike, I would definitely go 170 or below and would seriously consider 165.
If I get to build up a new bike, I would definitely go 170 or below and would seriously consider 165.
- mikesbytes
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I've grounded with 170mm cranks, nothing of concern.
This guy nearly fell off twice in two corners and he had speedplay pedals.
This guy nearly fell off twice in two corners and he had speedplay pedals.
- Simon Llewellyn
- Posts: 1532
- Joined: 13 Nov 2006, 22:31
- Location: Tempe Velodrome
I went out and bought the Cervelo. It's a very nice frame, I had a look at the BH's & they look pretty average to me. I mean for the money i wanted to spend, it was either better frame or better groupset & I think the better frame is more important or so i decided. I'm still a bit confused about the whole thing of the marketing hype versus value for money, but I'm happy with the bike.
Crank lenght? Bottom bracket height? I'm not too concerned about either. It's more important to me to have cranks closer to the lenght of my track cranks than worry about if my pedals will touch at heffron. It's simple, if it's too close in that part of the circuit don't pedal at that point & your pedals won't touch. But that's my theory any way & i've ridden that circuit quite a few times...
Crank lenght? Bottom bracket height? I'm not too concerned about either. It's more important to me to have cranks closer to the lenght of my track cranks than worry about if my pedals will touch at heffron. It's simple, if it's too close in that part of the circuit don't pedal at that point & your pedals won't touch. But that's my theory any way & i've ridden that circuit quite a few times...
- mikesbytes
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Enjoy
Do you want to ride RNP on Sunday ?
Do you want to ride RNP on Sunday ?
I find that after you've gotten to know the circuit you should no longer be grounding pedals. As for cranklength, i believe you should stick to what you're used too.
Good choice on the Cervelo. It's probably the best frame from your choices. As for the Ultegra, the Dura-Ace is supposed to be smoother and faster at shifting, though i believe that would be a very small difference, and the main thing would be the weight. Did you manage to get the Ultegra cranks, or are you stuck with FSA?
Weiyun- I don't think the Ridley frame would be too stiff for you, but you have to decide if you want to spend the money, and make sure it has a warranty. I'd say you could definitely get it under 7.5kg without too much trouble. My bike from memory is approx 7.2kg with the American Classic wheels, though i've got my 89g saddle, and 164g pedals. My frame weighs approx 1350g, and i have a suspicion that chorus is slightly lighter than Dura-Ace, so it shouldn't be too hard. If you need some help sheding weight from the bike let me know, and i'll tell you what to buy ($1000 THM Claviculas, maybe....)
Personally, i would like a nice $4000 frame, but until i've got plenty of money i think i'm going to stick to under $2000 (there are some good choices around). I'm still happy to go and buy top of the line components, because it means there's no temptation for me to upgrade, which would cause me to spend more in the long run.
Good choice on the Cervelo. It's probably the best frame from your choices. As for the Ultegra, the Dura-Ace is supposed to be smoother and faster at shifting, though i believe that would be a very small difference, and the main thing would be the weight. Did you manage to get the Ultegra cranks, or are you stuck with FSA?
Weiyun- I don't think the Ridley frame would be too stiff for you, but you have to decide if you want to spend the money, and make sure it has a warranty. I'd say you could definitely get it under 7.5kg without too much trouble. My bike from memory is approx 7.2kg with the American Classic wheels, though i've got my 89g saddle, and 164g pedals. My frame weighs approx 1350g, and i have a suspicion that chorus is slightly lighter than Dura-Ace, so it shouldn't be too hard. If you need some help sheding weight from the bike let me know, and i'll tell you what to buy ($1000 THM Claviculas, maybe....)
Personally, i would like a nice $4000 frame, but until i've got plenty of money i think i'm going to stick to under $2000 (there are some good choices around). I'm still happy to go and buy top of the line components, because it means there's no temptation for me to upgrade, which would cause me to spend more in the long run.
- Simon Llewellyn
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They want an extra $250 for the Ultegra cranks, which i'm thinking is not really worth the money. I would feel too much like i'm chucking away a perfectly good brand new set of cranks for no reason. I had a closer inspection of the FSA's and they actually don't look too bad. besides if i was to upgrade why bother with Ultegra, i may as well get Dura Ace, but i'm buying this bike as it's a solid package not too spend as much money as i can. because if i was going to do that the team soloist carbon would be perfect...
Thanks again guys for your advice.
- mikesbytes
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Got a link to the actual bike your brought?
Who brought or bought? Don't know about Simon but I haven't.
- Simon Llewellyn
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I bought/ordered in the Cervelo team soloist. Should hopefully have the bike by the weekend...
http://multi.cheekymonkey.com.au/index. ... &Itemid=13
http://multi.cheekymonkey.com.au/index. ... &Itemid=13
- mikesbytes
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How much $
- mikesbytes
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Simon needs some matching water bottle holders. Can't use his existing ones now he's riding with style.
Dura Ace might be slightly better than ultegra in terms of performance, but is definitely less durable. THis is due to the fact that the materials (titanium) used in Dura Ace for weight saving purposes are less durable than what is used in Ultegra (or 105).
I don't think i've really ever been as confused as this, i didn't realise buying a new bike is such a headache. I think i now remember why i love the track so much. It's so simple!
But i asked the boys at the track last night and no matter who i ask I've not yet heard a bad word about the cervelo even from the bloke who has a Time, Bianchi & Colnago, all top of the range... But brownie was quite convinced that Dura Ace is considerably better than Ultegra in performance and durability. Not that that's what I've read on the net but Brownies been in the game for along time and even done a stint as a pro. So gee i still remain quite confused. There is one certainty though. If it's cheap, they've cut a corner somewhere!
- mikesbytes
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How does the FSA that comes with the bike compare with Ultegra ?
Dura-Ace isn't really less durable, it just requires slightly more maintainance, not that i've had any issues. Well, once i got rid of that Dura-Ace chain it's all been fine.
Personally i believe the Ultegra cranks are lighter and Stiffer than the FSA Gossamers that come with the Cervelo, however the FSA's should do fine until it comes time for an upgrade.
I've got FSA Energy cranks on my touring bike (cheap and reasonably light), and they've been fine, though they haven't done much work yet. You probably wouldn't approve of my installation method to get them onto the Titanium ISIS bottom bracket, it involved a few rags and a wooden mallet (had issues with a tight fit from the splines). Not sure how easy they'll be to get off, but it might end up being a case of cut them off when the bottom bracket dies and put something lighter on.
Personally i believe the Ultegra cranks are lighter and Stiffer than the FSA Gossamers that come with the Cervelo, however the FSA's should do fine until it comes time for an upgrade.
I've got FSA Energy cranks on my touring bike (cheap and reasonably light), and they've been fine, though they haven't done much work yet. You probably wouldn't approve of my installation method to get them onto the Titanium ISIS bottom bracket, it involved a few rags and a wooden mallet (had issues with a tight fit from the splines). Not sure how easy they'll be to get off, but it might end up being a case of cut them off when the bottom bracket dies and put something lighter on.
- Simon Llewellyn
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All teams need to have a leader who ultimately must go solo at some point even if it's only the last 200ms...
- Simon Llewellyn
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As Arthur says you just can't beat natural ability!!!
- mcrkennedy
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You are right James. In Ride #31 (Spring 2006) there was a test of 12 leading cranks for lateral rigidity and the Ultegra cranks ranked number 1, Dura ace 2 and the FSA Gossamer 9th, SLK 11th and the K force 12th.Personally i believe the Ultegra cranks are lighter and Stiffer than the FSA Gossamers that come with the Cervelo, however the FSA's should do fine until it comes time for an upgrade.
Michael
- mikesbytes
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Was there a big or small difference?You are right James. In Ride #31 (Spring 2006) there was a test of 12 leading cranks for lateral rigidity and the Ultegra cranks ranked number 1, Dura ace 2 and the FSA Gossamer 9th, SLK 11th and the K force 12th.
Michael
- mcrkennedy
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Michael
I will dig out the mag and put the test result on this topic.
Michael
I will dig out the mag and put the test result on this topic.
Michael
- Simon Llewellyn
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I finally got the bike fitted today, on about two hours sleep after a long night shift. & I thought i should just add some info on the road test for anyone debating the question of what bike to buy & doubting the value of a good quality frame verse the cheap Taiwan no name brand frame with a good group set. The Cervelo is considerably quicker than any road bike i have ever ridden. It's funny cause to pick it up it doesn't feel all that much lighter than other bikes I've ridden but in performance especially on flat segments it feels a lot less resistant and if i was to quantify it I think it feels about 10km/hr quicker, or at least it feels like it handles a lot better up wards at the 60km/hr mark & is a lot more comfortable at the top end speeds, probably due to stiffness and the frame angles. I don't feel great improvements in climbing, though i don't go up hill fast at the best of times. I think i would want to drop a couple of kilos off the weight to make it a good climbing bike. I'll see how i go on Saturday at the Sydney road titles, but maybe i'll look at a set of Zipp 404s with singles to drop some of the weight. I mean just like colnagos go with campag for italiano, Zipps seem to go with Cervelo's for aerodynamics, but we'll see. The performance must equate to the cost or else i won't bother...
I have to agree, the aerodynamics of the Cervelo are as good as you're going to find. It's prettymuch the same weight as most other alloy frames from what i remember, so if someone really needed lighter they would have to go for the carbon version. Saying that, getting a bike with this frame down to the UCI 6.8kg limit wouldn't be too hard.
My main issue, is i want something a bit more unique, and i've seen a lot of people on cervelos at the opens lately. However it is still hard to find something with such a great allround performance.
Zipps do match Cervelos pretty well, but they also cost a bit, which is why i wouldn't be able to justify them myself.
Anyway, it sounds like you're happy with your choice. I won't be working this weekend, so i may get the chance to check out the road titles if i have time and transport.
My main issue, is i want something a bit more unique, and i've seen a lot of people on cervelos at the opens lately. However it is still hard to find something with such a great allround performance.
Zipps do match Cervelos pretty well, but they also cost a bit, which is why i wouldn't be able to justify them myself.
Anyway, it sounds like you're happy with your choice. I won't be working this weekend, so i may get the chance to check out the road titles if i have time and transport.
Congratulations Simon!...but in performance especially on flat segments it feels a lot less resistant and if i was to quantify it I think it feels about 10km/hr quicker...
But,
1) When you are euphoric, becareful of that placebo effect.
2) I thought steel is real.
I know what you mean about the stability at high speeds.
When I switched over to the Cervelo, I felt like it took some of the fun out of descending. Why? Because the old Canondale felt like it would tip you off if you rounded a corner and someone standing on the side of the road sneezed.
The Cervelo though, feels like it rides on rails around corners. You feel like you can keep taking the corners faster and faster and it will not have any issues with holding a good solid line.
As far as the weight goes, I think even with the heavier frame, it is possible to get these bikes quite light, but you need to drop a bucket load of cash on the lightweight components.
How do you find it for comfort Simon? I know that mine is surprisingly comfortable despite having a full aliminium rear triangle.
James
When I switched over to the Cervelo, I felt like it took some of the fun out of descending. Why? Because the old Canondale felt like it would tip you off if you rounded a corner and someone standing on the side of the road sneezed.
The Cervelo though, feels like it rides on rails around corners. You feel like you can keep taking the corners faster and faster and it will not have any issues with holding a good solid line.
As far as the weight goes, I think even with the heavier frame, it is possible to get these bikes quite light, but you need to drop a bucket load of cash on the lightweight components.
How do you find it for comfort Simon? I know that mine is surprisingly comfortable despite having a full aliminium rear triangle.
James
- Simon Llewellyn
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- Location: Tempe Velodrome
I can't complain about the comfort, i've always ridden aluminium frames, the carbon seat post is abit of an upgrade. But i don't normally worry too much about comfort in a racing bike. It's generally comfort or speed, because even if the bike is like an arm chair, to get that extra bit of wind resistance I tend to drop the bars slightly lower. Generally when your legs feel like led plates and your lungs are burning, you don't tend to worry about the pain in your backside all that much....
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