I need to get 3 or 4 rust holes fixed on an old 50 year old Morris Mini which I am fixing up. It is essentially a simple job but I dont have the expertise to handle this. Intend, with the help of a friend, to respray the car body.
The car is presently immobile, so would be good if the welder can make it to my place to do the job. Any suggestions who I can approach and how much it might cost?
Small holes (approx 1cm x 3cm) on the driver side door A pillar.
This larger hole is in the driver side footwell of the car. Measures approx 10cm x 3cm.
This is a pic of the recessed battery compartment. In old minis, they were located in the boot of the car. The bottom section has pretty much rusted out. Believe whole bottom needs replacing, size approx 30cm x 17cm.
Rust repairer needed - seeking suggestions
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- Posts: 595
- Joined: 04 Mar 2009, 08:27
There is a place on Victoria st Marrickville that has expertise in old cars. I'll dig up the contact details for you.
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- Posts: 595
- Joined: 04 Mar 2009, 08:27
J&I smash repairs 104 Victoria Rs Marrickville
you can most probably get new panels to replace the ones that are rusted out. It's easier to weld a new piece in rather than weld patches in epecially on sections with compound curves and corners
http://www.minisport.com/mini-body-repair-panels
http://www.minispares.com/shop/classic/ ... .aspx?0307
etc
http://www.minisport.com/mini-body-repair-panels
http://www.minispares.com/shop/classic/ ... .aspx?0307
etc
- JoTheBuilder
- Posts: 1500
- Joined: 19 Feb 2011, 15:32
Talk to Christian. He has all the gear for his car. I'll let him know.
The battery box and hole in the panel is easy enough. The hole at the edge of the panel isn't as easy. First step is to find out how much metal needs to be cut away. Take all the paint off the sections in question with a sanding wheel or if you are really careful an angle grinder with a flap wheel. This will give you a better idea of the damage. Are any of these parts visible when the car is assembled? If not you don't have to be as neat unless you are restoring for show.
The foot well hole is the hard one, compound curves are difficult without specialised equipment, which I do not have. I usually get buy with a hammer and dolly and a lot of patience. You can also make it out of smaller parts welded together. To get an idea of how complicated it is make one from cardboard, this also gives you a template when cutting the steel.
I do have all the welding equipment and it is portable, the E size gas cylinder is a bit of pain. Can't move air tools around as my compressor is big which limits you to an angle grinder for metal removal.
Find out how bad it really is first, rusty metal is hard to weld and will just rust again quickly. Keep any parts you cut out as you may need it for a shape reference. If you are going to get a professional to do it you'll have to float the car to their workshop.
The foot well hole is the hard one, compound curves are difficult without specialised equipment, which I do not have. I usually get buy with a hammer and dolly and a lot of patience. You can also make it out of smaller parts welded together. To get an idea of how complicated it is make one from cardboard, this also gives you a template when cutting the steel.
I do have all the welding equipment and it is portable, the E size gas cylinder is a bit of pain. Can't move air tools around as my compressor is big which limits you to an angle grinder for metal removal.
Find out how bad it really is first, rusty metal is hard to weld and will just rust again quickly. Keep any parts you cut out as you may need it for a shape reference. If you are going to get a professional to do it you'll have to float the car to their workshop.
how about installing this kit http://www.zcarsuk.com/store/index.php? ... duct_id=62
It might save you a bit of panel work
It might save you a bit of panel work
Firstly thanks for Simon, Geoff, Jo and Christian for your advice. This has been an old project (10 years) which I have been wanting to tackle but was hampered due to lack of time and money. Feel rather sentimental about this car. Is my first ever car, brought 2 of my 3 kids back from the hospital in it, done loads of intra state travel. The car has lots of good memories.
Christian, the A-pillar rust hole is a bit of a worry for me. The A-pillar holds up the driver side door. Personally I think the welding of a new piece of metal in that area should be okay. I've already checked the surrounding areas and there is no filler or rust. However if I wanted to play it safe, I'd get an entire new A-pillar and weld that on. The only problem is getting the parts to fit - new panel to old body.
My Mini is a bit like your Renault, Christian. The body numbers and engine numbers don't match. So I doubt if this will ever make a good concours car show competitor. Previous owners have also made some modifications (which actually make it work better) like installing boosted Cooper S disc brakes and a twin fuel tank. So while I would love the car to look like a million bucks, I am not too bothered if it doesn't too. Nothing a millimetre of silicone surface filler can't hide.
I am not too worried about the aesthetics of the weld in the footwell rust hole. This area is covered up with carpet anyway. At the moment I am thinking of a good quality tack weld job here. I've got most of the dolly hammers.
My only problem is the welding equipment. I own a 40litre air compressor which I believe can handle basic jobs.
Still very much in the early stages of planning for this basic restoration.
Christian, the A-pillar rust hole is a bit of a worry for me. The A-pillar holds up the driver side door. Personally I think the welding of a new piece of metal in that area should be okay. I've already checked the surrounding areas and there is no filler or rust. However if I wanted to play it safe, I'd get an entire new A-pillar and weld that on. The only problem is getting the parts to fit - new panel to old body.
My Mini is a bit like your Renault, Christian. The body numbers and engine numbers don't match. So I doubt if this will ever make a good concours car show competitor. Previous owners have also made some modifications (which actually make it work better) like installing boosted Cooper S disc brakes and a twin fuel tank. So while I would love the car to look like a million bucks, I am not too bothered if it doesn't too. Nothing a millimetre of silicone surface filler can't hide.
I am not too worried about the aesthetics of the weld in the footwell rust hole. This area is covered up with carpet anyway. At the moment I am thinking of a good quality tack weld job here. I've got most of the dolly hammers.
My only problem is the welding equipment. I own a 40litre air compressor which I believe can handle basic jobs.
Still very much in the early stages of planning for this basic restoration.
Last edited by marc2131 on 30 Sep 2015, 11:34, edited 1 time in total.
I've done a lot of body work on datsun 1600's i've had in the past.
I've also spent time helping a friend restoring a morris minor and welding the new panels in was no problem at all. forming up sheet to fill in gaps was a pain.
I don't have a welder. I still have all my body shaping hammers though
I've also spent time helping a friend restoring a morris minor and welding the new panels in was no problem at all. forming up sheet to fill in gaps was a pain.
I don't have a welder. I still have all my body shaping hammers though
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