In the spirit of bike fetishism, I've been dribbling in the shop windows of various bike shops trying to get the pick of the litter from the 2007 stock. I've decided this is the year for a new road bike (it might even be tax deductible for me : ) ) and bikes seem to be coming down in terms of what you can get.
Here are some bikes I've been looking at:
Expensive options:
Specialized Tarmac Expert (Ultegra/Dura Ace) $3600
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22285
Pros: la la light! comes with kyseriums!!!
Cons: dog ugly paint job
Eddy Merckx AXM (3500-4000?) (Ultegra) (Mavic Askiums)
http://www.eddymerckx.be/
Pros: Just in, work of art! I'm sure it rides well too! Lifetime frame warrenty.
Cons: could be the next colnago? mid-life crisis material.
More sensible choices:
BH Spirit (Ultegra) $2400s
http://www.frfsports.com.au/BH/spirit.htm
Pros: Value, comfort, DHBC colours... have taken for a test ride and found it much more comfortable than some more expensive bikes)
Cons: tires and wheelset Shimano 500 is average
Trek 5000 ($2400) (Ultegra/105)
http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/2006/archive/5000
Pros: 2006/7 model? Value, continuity with my Trek steeds, lifetime frame warrenty
Cons: not full Ultegra group set.
At the moment, I just want to get some test rides in with all of them, as I know that all of them are well beyond my needs as a cyclist, but has anyone had any experience with any of these bikes and/or companies?
New bike (not T-bone's)
Give up on any Specialized models that have one of those Herz insert. Makes no practical sense. Just personal opinion. 
I may have my spelling wrong. But it's a silicon rubber insert inside the frame and supposedly they can dampen road buzz and improve the ride comfort. Specialized has them in a lot of their frames, seatposts and forks.
Judging by what you have put up there, you are looking at spending $3,000 - $4,000 at the most.
From what I have seen, there are a lot of bikes in that price range, all of them good. At that point it basically comes down to trying to find the best deal on a bike that you like.
I had a look at KOM Cyclery as I know they list bike prices on their site.
I noticed that you can get a Cannondale Six 13 with Dura-Ace for $4,100, as well as a Systemsix 4 for $4,000 with SRAM Rival (I don't know where this sits in SRAM components).
And then there is my favourite, the Cervelo Team Soloist for $3,200.
At the end of the day, if you have ridden the bike, liked it, it is in your price range, and it seems like a good deal, then it is probably the bike for you.
The other option, could be to buy the components from overseas, and the frame etc here and get a bike built to your specifications.
James
ps: The Specialized inserts are Zertz
From what I have seen, there are a lot of bikes in that price range, all of them good. At that point it basically comes down to trying to find the best deal on a bike that you like.
I had a look at KOM Cyclery as I know they list bike prices on their site.
I noticed that you can get a Cannondale Six 13 with Dura-Ace for $4,100, as well as a Systemsix 4 for $4,000 with SRAM Rival (I don't know where this sits in SRAM components).
And then there is my favourite, the Cervelo Team Soloist for $3,200.
At the end of the day, if you have ridden the bike, liked it, it is in your price range, and it seems like a good deal, then it is probably the bike for you.
The other option, could be to buy the components from overseas, and the frame etc here and get a bike built to your specifications.
James
ps: The Specialized inserts are Zertz
You have quite a price range there. At $3500 and up, you have a lot of options out there. Even Italians are readily accessible at that price point. Also bear in mind that you may get even better value by building your own through mail-order of frame and components.
Based on my understanding of engineering principles and human physiology.Based on what ?
That Zertz insert is like that Buzz-kill put out by Bontrager. Pure gimmick in a practical sense. Yes, you may demonstrate an effect in the lab using ultra-sensitive equipments, but in real life, non-event apart from placebo. Then there's the question on durability of a silicon based insert that's subjected regular weather exposure and UV rays. Not a durable design with little gain. And I bet the same frame would ride identical with those Zertz pieces removed.
BTW Damian. We need to see you back on Sat and Sundays.
So you haven't ridden it to know for certain ?Based on my understanding of engineering principles and human physiology.
BTW Damian. We need to see you back on Sat and Sundays.
I was out on Sunday. But with a smaller group, I've been riding with a few mates who live nearby.
It it looks and smells like crap, there's no great desire to taste it. And hence the personal opinion. Some would.So you haven't ridden it to know for certain ?
Further, there's no overwhelming evidence from users being able to differentiate the benefit of that Zertz insert, hence it's position in the placebo/gimmick category is pretty much assured. Fine bikes they are, but not by those Zertz inserts.
I've got those HERZ inserts in my Koln, except they are in the chain stays, not the forks or seatpost, and they are called DAVS (I'll read what that stands for when I get home).
I've got different silicon inserts for different road/racing conditions, which are colour-coded accordingly. They seem to dampen the vibration (~ I think I've just found out where they got DAVS from! ~) very well, but my preference would be to go back to a steel bike for cornering quality, which is lacking in this particular alu/carbon frame.
My advice regarding bike choice is to get the right frame. The parts are less important. You can always upgrade parts, but the wrong size frame can never be fixed. Test ride before you buy - several times on different days! Also, forget about compact and semi-compact frames. These exist only to save bike companies money, and don't handle as well as traditional geometry.
Forget other people's opinions regarding whether frames are good, or not. Just make sure you get the right size!!! There are 2 really important measurements to get right on your bike. The seat tube length and the top tube length. Here is a link to a website which will use your measurements to tell you what these lengths should be. (It uses the Greg Lemond method, Eddy Merckx method and their own method).
Link to bike fitting site
Buy any of the bikes which have measurements within your range, and DO NOT BUY any that are outside your range. They may be good for other riders, but not you.
Get these right, and your bike will be a joy to ride.
I've got different silicon inserts for different road/racing conditions, which are colour-coded accordingly. They seem to dampen the vibration (~ I think I've just found out where they got DAVS from! ~) very well, but my preference would be to go back to a steel bike for cornering quality, which is lacking in this particular alu/carbon frame.
My advice regarding bike choice is to get the right frame. The parts are less important. You can always upgrade parts, but the wrong size frame can never be fixed. Test ride before you buy - several times on different days! Also, forget about compact and semi-compact frames. These exist only to save bike companies money, and don't handle as well as traditional geometry.
Forget other people's opinions regarding whether frames are good, or not. Just make sure you get the right size!!! There are 2 really important measurements to get right on your bike. The seat tube length and the top tube length. Here is a link to a website which will use your measurements to tell you what these lengths should be. (It uses the Greg Lemond method, Eddy Merckx method and their own method).
Link to bike fitting site
Buy any of the bikes which have measurements within your range, and DO NOT BUY any that are outside your range. They may be good for other riders, but not you.
Get these right, and your bike will be a joy to ride.
Funny, my Cervelo, which is compact frame (or maybe only semi-compact) handles like a dream. The only issue I have is that it is very short, so I get overlap with my toes on the front wheel, this is only an issue at low speeds though.Also, forget about compact and semi-compact frames. These exist only to save bike companies money, and don't handle as well as traditional geometry.
James
DAVS stands for Deda Anti-Vibration System from what i remember. In my opinion whatever it does is minimal, and i only chose the inserts which matched the frame.
In my opinion, bike fitting is best done by a qualified person in a shop, though after a bit of riding you should have some idea of what suits you, and if you're happy with the position on your current bike, then it's easy.
Just find something you like that fits and you're going to be happy with. Since you're test riding it should help. I go with the gambling method of buying an unridden frame in order to save some dollars, though in a few years when i've saved enough i'll probably get myself a nice custom frame (material TBD).
I disagree. You can't exclude them otherwise you'll be excluding the majority of frames available, limiting any choice. Saying they don't handle as well is a personal opinion, and if it was true i'm sure the Pros would have informed the bike companies years ago. It may be true of the bikes you've riden, but it is not a certainty. As for bike companies saving money, they do that by getting their frames made in Asia, then add paint to say they were made in Europe or wherever.Also, forget about compact and semi-compact frames. These exist only to save bike companies money, and don't handle as well as traditional geometry.
In my opinion, bike fitting is best done by a qualified person in a shop, though after a bit of riding you should have some idea of what suits you, and if you're happy with the position on your current bike, then it's easy.
Just find something you like that fits and you're going to be happy with. Since you're test riding it should help. I go with the gambling method of buying an unridden frame in order to save some dollars, though in a few years when i've saved enough i'll probably get myself a nice custom frame (material TBD).
Adrian, on Sunday at Bobos you mentioned frame warranty. Interestingly on Sunday arvo I put my Europa in for service - John called me on Tues and said service went well...but. There is a hairline fracture around the lug for water bottle cage...could be 1 month or 1 year. The frame comes with a two year warranty and John from Europa Cycles gave me some options, of which, I took the no cost option of replacement under warranty of frame with an alloy Columbus zonal tangerine frame. This frame also comes with a two year warranty. I noted some of the bikes your looking at come with a three year conditional warranty and you mentioned one had a lifetime warranty. Warranty does matter. Bit of luck on a few fronts
http://www.europacycles.com.au/catalog/ ... 547394.htm
http://www.europacycles.com.au/catalog/ ... 547394.htm
Sounds like some very good service and support from Europa Cycles.
For me warranty isn't too much of an issue, as i usually look to save money, though generally most of the stuff i get has a warranty, but it just might take a bit more effort to claim. I also do all my own bike servicing, so i don't require that from a shop.
Basically, if you require easy warranty support and service, then you have to buy from an LBS. Just make sure to check all conditions of the warranty, though they'll usually be pretty similar covering manufacturing defects.
For me warranty isn't too much of an issue, as i usually look to save money, though generally most of the stuff i get has a warranty, but it just might take a bit more effort to claim. I also do all my own bike servicing, so i don't require that from a shop.
Basically, if you require easy warranty support and service, then you have to buy from an LBS. Just make sure to check all conditions of the warranty, though they'll usually be pretty similar covering manufacturing defects.
Wow, Michael will no longer be on a white bike! 
Strange place for a frame fracture though.
Strange place for a frame fracture though.
I think that you will find that most frames have Conditional Warranty, whether they have 1 year, 2 year or lifetime.
The Conditions on Warranty are usually pretty standard, they only cover the original owner, so most second hand frames will have no manufactures warranty, and they only cover fair wear and tear. So if you wrap your bike around a telegraph pole, snap it in three places, fat chance on getting any warranty out of it.
Generally, if there is a dent or serious mark where the crack is, then they may not cover it as it can be the result of an impact.
James
The Conditions on Warranty are usually pretty standard, they only cover the original owner, so most second hand frames will have no manufactures warranty, and they only cover fair wear and tear. So if you wrap your bike around a telegraph pole, snap it in three places, fat chance on getting any warranty out of it.
Generally, if there is a dent or serious mark where the crack is, then they may not cover it as it can be the result of an impact.
James
ok bike geeks. I'm come back to the real world of the 9 to 5, where working hard is a trade off for weekends of carbon fetish and bike bling.
Here's what I'm looking at (and I'll be each taking each for a test ride).
Madone 4.5
http://www.cyclery.com.au/our-bikes-bic ... etail_4224
Madone 5.1
http://www.cyclery.com.au/our-bikes-bic ... etail_4222
The main difference is the 4.5 has TCT carbon with a mostly 105 groupset (except ultegra derailuer) and its made in Tawain. The 5.1 have OCLV carbon with a full ultegra groupset and is made in the USA. The 4.5 is alot cheaper and I don't have a problem with running 105. The only question I had was regarding each was the two types of carbon TCT and OCLV? can anyone enligten me about this, or is it just marketing BS?
Here's what I'm looking at (and I'll be each taking each for a test ride).
Madone 4.5
http://www.cyclery.com.au/our-bikes-bic ... etail_4224
Madone 5.1
http://www.cyclery.com.au/our-bikes-bic ... etail_4222
The main difference is the 4.5 has TCT carbon with a mostly 105 groupset (except ultegra derailuer) and its made in Tawain. The 5.1 have OCLV carbon with a full ultegra groupset and is made in the USA. The 4.5 is alot cheaper and I don't have a problem with running 105. The only question I had was regarding each was the two types of carbon TCT and OCLV? can anyone enligten me about this, or is it just marketing BS?
If you can differentiate TCT and OCLV carbon by a quick test ride, then you'll be a much better man than most. Otherwise weigh the two frames and you'll find the difference. The TCT carbon is a slightly heavier carbon weave per strength. The geometry and other specific design parameters would matter more, a lot more.
MIT or MIUSA doesn't matter much as Taiwan has some of the best CF bike manufacturing facilities around.
MIT or MIUSA doesn't matter much as Taiwan has some of the best CF bike manufacturing facilities around.
Well, you get that nice semi-integrated seatpost with the 5.1, though i'm not really a fan of Yellow myself, so for looks i'd say the 4.5 looks better. Though the 5.1 has the internally routed rear brake cable, but if i wanted that i would have to stretch for the 5.2, just because of the colour.
I'm also not sure of these different carbon categories Trek has come up with, but like weiyun said, they know how to make carbon frames in Taiwan.
I don't really see much to justify the massive price difference other than the fact that the 5.1 is made in USA. You could buy the 4.5 and upgrade to Dura-Ace and top quality seatpost, bars, etc. for the same price, then sell the 105 and buy some nice wheels. Not sure what the stock brakes on the 4.5 are either, so maybe upgrade them to 105.
Basically, i'd go with the Madone 4.5 as it seems to be better value for money, looks better, and leaves plenty of cash for upgrades.
I'm also not sure of these different carbon categories Trek has come up with, but like weiyun said, they know how to make carbon frames in Taiwan.
I don't really see much to justify the massive price difference other than the fact that the 5.1 is made in USA. You could buy the 4.5 and upgrade to Dura-Ace and top quality seatpost, bars, etc. for the same price, then sell the 105 and buy some nice wheels. Not sure what the stock brakes on the 4.5 are either, so maybe upgrade them to 105.
Basically, i'd go with the Madone 4.5 as it seems to be better value for money, looks better, and leaves plenty of cash for upgrades.
The Trek Madone 4.5 has been bought. so bring on the bling!
I took each of them for a test ride today at Clarence St. I found no noticable difference between the 4.5 and 5.1... if anything I liked the 4.5 more. The only noticable difference was that the breaks on the 4.5 were not as good.
One of the most interesting things in looking at the bike geometry was despite both bikes being 54cm frames, the top tube on my old 1200 was 2cm longer. The new Madone is shorter and feels much more comfortable.
I took each of them for a test ride today at Clarence St. I found no noticable difference between the 4.5 and 5.1... if anything I liked the 4.5 more. The only noticable difference was that the breaks on the 4.5 were not as good.
One of the most interesting things in looking at the bike geometry was despite both bikes being 54cm frames, the top tube on my old 1200 was 2cm longer. The new Madone is shorter and feels much more comfortable.
Try changing the brake pads and see if the problem is with the calipers or with the pads.
The braking can be the wheels as well. I used to ride a bike with Mavic Cosmic Elite's, and I never felt that it stopped well. It had Dura-Ace Brakes so I don't think that they were the problem.
James
James
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